Life at Finca Casa Halcon

How we adjusted to the Andalucian Time Table

When you move to a very different country it takes a while to adjust or even cast off some of your own habits.

Moving from the chilly shores of Ireland to the extreme heat of southern Spain is as radical a change as you can think of. Now living here five years, I have watched myself from walking on the sunny side, to catch as much heat as possible in the early days, to now walking on the shady side of the street. This took me two years.

Now, I always wear sun glasses, as my eyes are naturally dry and the hot, dusty air makes them sting. I also always apply sunscreen on my face and hands in the morning.

We have adjusted our meal times from eating regularly around 13.00 to between 14.00 and 15.00, as the mornings are fresh to do outside work.  During the siesta time, between 14.00 and 17.00, we stay out of the sun. In the evening more gardening or walking can take place.

I use the siesta time in town to go shopping at Mercadona, as it is then mercifully empty and I can get my shopping done quicker. It’s a chore to be done, not a particular pleasure, and as all other shops are closed and people are having their lunch and siesta and I can breathe through the aisles.

It is only April and the temperatures are already up to 30 degrees, a fairly sudden jump, paired with a dramatic lack of rain. The rivers are only small rivulets and the lagoon at El Rocio is drying out already. Our well is at its lowest level, but holding steady. At this time of year, it should have its maximum level, but it is nearly too late to hope for a lengthy deluge to fill up the water levels.

one of the Rio Tinto tributaries in March

Daily hundreds of thousands liters of groundwater are pumped up to irrigate the strawberries grown here on more than thousand hectares of land. This water is exported all over Europe, but hardly replenished if the drought in Europe continues. This is criminal.  It is depriving the Doñana National park and its wetlands of its most valuable asset.

Already last year the indigenous horses, the Marismeña race, had to be taken out of the National Park as water and grazing was lacking to support this ancient way of husbandry. Farming here is mostly subsistence, very little feed is bought and the Doñana was a huge grazing ground for free for many centuries. We witnessed the deterioration of the condition of the horses in the last couple of years when they are herded through the town of Almonte at the ‘Saca de las Yeguas’ in June every year.

Excuse the rant, dear reader, but this means, everybody has to adjust to the progressing desertification of the South of Spain, not just the newcomers and guiris (foreigners). Old farming methods and traditions also are in danger of becoming a memory of the past.

You can read more here: https://www.euronews.com/2022/11/02/spains-donana-wetlands-are-drying-up  or here:

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2022/sep/05/santa-olalla-lake-dries-up-in-vital-spanish-wetland-blamed-on-overexploitation

or here:    https://wwf.panda.org/wwf_news/?6327466/Dont-blame-the-drought-for-drying-out-Donana.

We exchanged the lawn for an artificial version, which is permanently green and needs no watering; an expensive investment but a water conservation decision.

In my first and second year of gardening here I seem to have had more success even though this climate was new to me. Now however, it’s so much harder, even the wine dried up last year due to the hot, dry wind, people told us.

My tomatoes and aubergines only started producing fruit after the hottest time was over by September, and then lasted until December. This year I will save myself the bother and only grow in the autumn and winter. Our potatoes however are doing well and starting to flower. We already harvested two containers. This is the only way to keep the water available for the plants, to plant in containers. Or of course drip irrigation, which is too complicated for me to install, as my space is too big and expansive.

Types of Guests We Encounter

As guest house owners, or rather Rural Tourism provider for the past five years, we have a lot of stories to tell. We never know who comes through our door and when, so it certainly makes life interesting.

All sorts of people and couples come through our door. Our house has been used for prostitution, for a honeymoon, for a first date, for recovery and a refuge and many interesting life stories have been told.

We can categorise our guests into several common types:

  • the ‘Book-and-Canceller’

We get quite a lot of them; particularly when they book weeks in advance for some fiesta happening in El Rocio and then cancel a few minutes later or a few days before. At this stage I don’t even get excited about any booking until 3 days before, only then it gets written into the calendar and my guest list for sending out the directions on Whatsapp.

  • the ‘Book-and-not –turn Upper’

Every guest gets a confirmation email from Booking.com and also from us. On the day before arrival another email reminds our guests that check-in is open from 14.00 to 20.00. This was needed as some Spanish like to go to El Rocio and meet friends and turn up at midnight or later for check-in.  A day prior to that they will receive a Whatsapp message with directions to our finca, with a written description, a map and coordinates. And still some Spanish get lost.

And some do not merit this care with a reply, which usually means they accidentally booked or their plans have changed but they do not bother to admit this and just let the reservation go and don’t turn up, which is an easy way for me to earn money as they have paid in advance. But the lack of communication and respect is still annoying.

  • the ‘Thousand Questions Asker’

If a guest bombards me with question after question through Booking.com that often means trouble. It shows that they do not take the time to read our detailed description and want everything hand-fed to them. He is closely related to the following type of guest,

  • the ‘Not Read-but Assumer’

These guests usually want a self-contained abode, a small cottage for themselves with a kitchen to have family and friends around for the price of one or two rooms. Maybe there are places like that available, but certainly not for just one night. They read Almonte, Finca, Double room, a low price, great. When they appear you can see on their faces the dawning realisation that we actually live here and they have to share this house with us.

One of those guests, a flashy guy with gold necklace from Malaga, actually started arguing with us. In the end Nigel used his Irish charm on him and he loved it here.

  • the ‘Never-mind-the-Time’ Guest

At booking, we ask for the estimated arrival time or guests will reply to my Whatsapp message with a time. Sometimes they will ask to come earlier to drop off luggage, which is no problem. But sometimes they will give me a later time, like after 16.00 or later, which gives me time to do some shopping after doing up the rooms. However often these guests will then actually arrive much earlier, which means we really can’t trust their estimated arrival time. Only since I introduced a fee for late check-in are guests abiding our check in times. Obviously, if people arrive by ferry or plane at a late time we allow for that, and at least they will now let us know beforehand.

  • the ‘We-Love-It-All’ Guest

We do have a lot of appreciative guests that like the personal touch, the friendly vibe and rustic set-up. So far we have achieved every year the Booking award through the high ratings of our guests. And that makes it all worthwhile.

  • The ‘I lock my door’ versus the ‘I leave my door open ‘ Guest

We did not always have locks on our doors. In fact, we only got them installed last summer, after four years of hosting strangers, and yet still we don’t lock our door. Sometimes we might remember to lock our room when we both leave the premises and we have guests.

We did have some guests remarking on our lack of security and now about 50% would use it when they leave to go to town or elsewhere. I guess for them it’s a kind of habit from staying in hotels. It does at least give them the choice and a feeling of security.

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PS

Excuse me for the lack of pictures. As I have reverted to the free version because I thought I don’t really get the benefit out of my yearly payment I now realise that the space for uploads is full and it will not allow me to add more. I will have to remedy this, as a picture says more than a thousand words and they make this blog more colour- and meaningful.

An Extreme HOT AND DRY SUMMER

Sunset at Finca Halcon

July has gone and so has August and September and here we are at the end of October,

it’s shocking how time flies by so quickly.

I have to admit the heat really takes its toll and a siesta is necessary to keep energy-levels up, so then the evenings have to make up for the lost time.

Guests kept coming, keeping me busy and then the olive harvest started in early September.

I have learned some lessons in the garden, the hard way.

The garden gurus say to save seeds yourself, to propagate your own so that seed companies do not have the monopoly on seeds and our food supply.

I sowed courgettes, probably old seed or seed from shop bought courgettes, I cannot remember, mistake number one. Note to self: Always make sure you remember where your seed comes from.

I watered and fertilised, and water and mulched and incorporated ‘ollas’ and did everything to achieve lush, green growing plants. They flowered and some little baby fruit appeared. I harvested one; yes only one medium courgette from five plants. Every other fruit shrivelled up or died or did not even form.

The same with volunteer tomatoes from last year and the melon plants; they grew and developed nice green foliage, two small melons appeared and shrivelled up; granted after being attacked by the peacocks.

And my shop bought tomato plants? Yes, they are still producing, but I rarely get to enjoy a fruit as again the peacocks get at them despite netting and wire mesh. And the ones they cannot get the ants will claim for themselves. In an extremely dry, hot year any source of moisture helps the critters to survive.

Who am I to deny nature its bit? Well, it is damn frustrating to a go without a bounty of harvest after putting in the time of keeping the plants alive in the extreme heat.

Saying that, I did have some success with the cucumbers and made plenty of cucumber smoothies and the peppers are doing quite well and also the multi-coloured aubergines. I have purple, purple-white striped, yellow and white aubergines and even sold some to the Moroccan shop, which also takes our eggs. Ok, I am obsessing about those beauties, simply because this is this years most successful crop, as ants and peacocks don’t go near them.

This year’s lesson is:

  1. take note of where your seeds or plants come from, also what age the seeds are.
  2. do not buy hybrid or polyploid seeds or plants if you want to save the seeds or propagate new plants from the old
  3. bought plants will not guarantee successive produce in the next year, because of the same problem: lots of fruit in the first year, then diminished production.
  4. If you want to save seeds, buy organic seed that are untreated, produced without chemical additives like fertilisers and pesticides and are not hybrids for a once off showy grandeur of produce.

And did I mention the trouble these beautiful wonderful peacock and peahens give me? It’s definitely a love-hate relationship, full of passion. They break into the garden; push their way through netting and wire to eat all of the Swiss chard, some tomatoes, all of the cabbage, lettuce and what-have-you.

I am looking forward sowing my crop of Ruccola, self-saved and always a great slightly peppery salad ingredient.

HAPPY DAYS WITH LOVELY PEOPLE

In August I went to collect my daughter Elaine in Malaga, or rather Fuerengirola, taking in Benalmadena on the way where a dear friend of mine lives.

She is nearing her 80s, but an inspiration with her active life. She moved to Spain in her 70s, learned Spanish then and thus it proves you are never too old to start anything. Being a nurse by profession she volunteered her time and expertise in a nearby hospice and wrote a book at the same time. We met in 2016 in Granada on an excursion of the Spanish language schools and being both on the way to move our lives to Spain, clicked.

My daughter was after having a hen party weekend with friends and happy to move to the quietness of our finca. Not without being dragged over the border to Portugal, where my son and girlfriend holidayed in Albufeira. Well, ‘If the mountain will not come to Muhammad, then Muhammad must go to the mountain’ or: don’t underestimate your mother, she will come and find you.

We spent a lovely day paddle surfing, paddle boating, jumping into the water, falling off the paddle board and filling ourselves up with food in between. All crowned with a cocktail, and a mocktail in my case, in the ‘Havana meets Jamaica Bar’, [R. Padre Semedo de Azevedo Nº18, 8200-167 Albufeira, the old town, Portugal], which we would recommend if you like really well made cocktails, Bob Marley, Shisha and a cool decor.

As you can see, I am lacking photos of this single day in Albufeira. Simply because we enjoyed ourselves too much to take silly selfies and were too busy splashing in the water and getting sun burnt.

Corona-Virus Quarantine Blog 2

sign for the roadside

So what happens if you are in week five of the Corona-Virus lock-down?

Not much. Just some mundane things like your hair getting longer and greyer, your patience slowly running thin and you are trying to occupy yourself with keeping somewhat from shape-shifting into a doughnut with several methods. One of them is an iron-strong will not to snack after dinner; to cut out the chocolate bar after lunch; not to bake another delicious cake.

Although saying that, we are of course lucky as there is always some hard-core work do be done on a finca and in the garden.

Even painting the entrance can be counted as this, as holding a brush to painstakingly trace around and inside the lettering can be quiet strenuous.

We were just getting into the groove of cycling around the finca, Nigel even clocking up to 15 kms, when our first pony arrived on loan from our neighbour to eat the greenery.

Everything is now lush and quite overgrown, so cycling actually got a bit hairy. There is a riot of colour displayed, particularly after all the rain we have been getting.

The daily work-out for Nigel is either handling the chainsaw to prune the trees or now expanding on the width and length of the future swimming-pool, which involves only hand-digging and bringing buckets full of clay, which is as hard as concrete, to the surface and depositing them along the fence line as barrier for the dogs.

I do some weeding, light digging if needs be and have taken up the Figure8 dance fitness (see https://bodyfx.tv/jaana-rhythms/), an online course to get me sweating and rediscovering my waistline, some day. The daily 45 minute workout leaves me aching and tired, so it must be doing something. It’s based on mostly Latin dance moves, which I am familiar with, and some high-octane Jive or Charleston.

We also harvested our first potatoes. The stalks got hit by blight, a fungal disease and so Nigel dug them up to rescue the spuds underneath. They are nice, some very small but edible. He has planted some more now.

Nigel also built a rocket burner, an emergency stove for outside, and it works a treat. Within 20 minutes we had a lentil stew bubbling away on it.

How do we feel about the increasing length of this quarantine?

Nigel’s life really hasn’t changed that much, as he prefers to be at home on the finca and keeping himself busy. It has more an impact on me as so far I don’t have to handle phone calls and online inquiries from potential guests. It makes me feel a bit surplus to requirements even though I have no problem keeping occupied. There is always the blog, the website development, continuous Spanish learning, gardening, baking, cooking, etc.

And yet I object to the curtailment of the freedom of movement, I think it goes too far. By all means protect the vulnerable and make protective gear available to all that come in contact with the elderly and already sick persons. Maybe I underestimate the dangerousness of this virus, but since we are not given the comparative figures of ‘normal’ death rates and a correlation between real Corona victims and percentage of population, the reported figures are skewed. And any scientist or doctor who says so is not given credit or newsworthiness. I have heard of such physicians that have been bullied and threatened. We are as a populous governed by fear. Only fear will really keep us in check, this has always been the best method of controlling citizens. Look to any dictatorship, the third Reich under Hitler or the Mafia stranglehold on life in Italy and other countries. What happens now, in the whole world, without questions asked, is without precedence. It makes me wonder.

Anyway, we just have to get on with it and I say this again, we are one of the privileged, as we have an income and very few bills to pay. Like all owners of supermarkets, tobacconists, pharmacies, food stores, veterinarians, farmers and field workers our life keeps going on much as it was before, minus the guests and their money.

So this virus is selective in its impact on the livelihood of people. Some will receive government help; others will fall through the cracks. A lot of businesses will close for good and we don’t know the economic outfall of it all yet.

When all this overwhelms me I try to concentrate on the positive side, because every evil has some good, nothing is black & white. So the reporting of wild things coming out to play, like goats in a town in Wales, an Orca whale in the harbour in Mazagon (only 45 minutes from here), a wild boar in Barcelona, a panda in Hong Kong Zoo finally falling pregnant as a result of no Zoo visitors, and less traffic on the roads is good news for hedgehogs and badgers.

Not to forget that air pollution has reduced dramatically, for the first time people in China’s metropolis can see blue skies, even seismologists report lower vibrations from “cultural noise” than before the pandemic. And little or no airplanes in the skies, even Gretta Thunberg couldn’t foresee that her wish would come true so soon.

We added to our family, as our cat Shadow gave birth to five kittens, three of them male. She was originally given to me as a male, but when our Jack became interested in him/her, we realised it is a she. Life happens.

On the olive pruning side of things, we tried the grafting method which our neighbours employ to rejuvenate a branch that was cut as it lost the vigour to produce olives. When an old arm is cut off, new growth will sprout as in photo 1. Too many sprigs and you have then to select which ones to keep. Instead you can take a sprig from a strong, vigorous olive tree, another type even, and slip the prepared sprig into the outer layer, where it will take root. To keep the site moist and prevent other suckers forming, damp clay is used to close off the cut and an old bag wrapped around the outside to keep it in place.

I have been trying out more no-gluten recipes.

One of them from Glutenfree-on-a-shoestring is called Japanese Milk Bread and came out very well; so well in fact, that the yeast dough flowed all over the bed, where I had it sitting in the warm sunshine for an hour. I had so much dough that I also made a bap that was delicious eaten warm. It’s light, fluffy yellow bread, good for jam and sweet spreads. I added sesame seed to the recipe.

See the recipe at:

https://glutenfreeonashoestring.com/gluten-free-japanese-milk-bread-the-softest-bread-ever/

I substituted the cream of tartar with more vinegar, the butter with sunflower oil and left out the xanthan gum. The flour mix was from a supermarket, it still worked well.

The other new item on the menu is a tortillita, made with equal amount of rice and chickpea flour mixed with cold water and any nice additions like onion, prawns or anchovies or anything you like, even parmesan or cauliflower.

Here is the basic recipe for 2 pers:

100g Rice flour

100 g Chickpea flour

½ cup of water, mix well until sticky, add salt to taste

½ finely chopped onion, ¼ cup chopped parsley

possible addition:    1 tin chopped anchovies, pinch of chili pepper.

The Apple Cake, also glutenfree, transformed into a Birthday cake for my daughter Elaine. Unfortunately we had to eat it ourselves as she could not be with us as planned thanks to the dam*!?x/&#  virus.

SPRINGTIME IN OCTOBER

'Shadow'

The rain has finally arrived and given the trees and the car a welcome wash-down, and refreshed everything. The starlings are noisy in the trees and the buzzards and falcons are circling above.

The temperature has briefly dipped to below ten degrees at night but is up again to a balmy fifteen. We had a fire in our stove lit to keep the cold at bay, but now it is not necessary.

I have planted five types of spring bulbs today: Daffodils, Tulips, Iris, Fresias and Anemones.

Because of the severe lack of water, farmers have to feed their livestock mainly bought-in straw. Joaquin, a farmer not far from us, feeds his sheep and cows all sorts of fruit that are otherwise dumped. Lately, we saw his cattle tucking into a heap of limes. Yes, the small citrus fruit.

I know, there is citrus pulp included in cattle feed, but these were real, juicy fruit. Now, I am not sure about that. Last year he fed a load of sweet potatoes to his sheep and some died of bloating. Hopefully more rain will mean some fresh growth soon.

Gardening Olives

What we are doing at the moment I call gardening rather than olive harvesting.

Let me explain.

When people are gardening, they are doing it usually for pleasure and no monetary return is involved. It is an activity born purely out of the enjoyment to be outdoors, listening to the birds, the hens scratching, bees buzzing and feeling and smelling the earth, the end result being a lovely flower display or vegetables and fruits for the table. Nobody would ask you what you earn from this labour of love.

At this point in our olive harvest we are gathering left-over olives, which have turned black. These were deemed to small to be picked green, as the bigger the size, the higher the price. So now they are only few of these on the trees or up high and for 30 cents a kilo nobody would bother to take them down. We are however, and it is also like housekeeping, cleaning up. So the return is minuscule and we are laughed at. But I can think of a lot worse things to be doing then cherry-picking olives under the blue sky and getting a good work out at the same time. Believe me, dear reader, it is strenuous exercise. You stretch up high with or without a long-handled plastic fork, pulling the last olives down and then bend down to collect them from the ground. It does come for free, so no need to enroll in a yoga class or pay a monthly fee for the gym.

When we have done the black olives that are used for making olive oil, we will start the next round of green eating olives at a minimum of 60 cents a kilo, these are the Verdial. They are slightly longish, bumpy and spotted, rather than the plump, round Manzanilla.

Minus One

We started out originally with eight hens, which got decimated for different reasons to four. We then bought three more but are again down to five.

From our four dogs for keeps, little cutie Bonny vanished. So Clyde has lost her sibling. Apparently a number of dogs have disappeared in the neighbourhood and a white van has been seen driving about. We can only assume she has been kidnapped, so we are left with three dogs: our giant Mastin Sofie, Drops our stray and her daughter Clyde.

We also had three cats. Sadly we found Sam, our red one, dead on the road the other day and are left with Jack and Shadow.

dav

April brings April showers, puppies and a riot of colour

 

 

 

Demise of a pool – Creation of a new pool

We bought the round, overground pool relatively cheaply last summer in Carrefour, complete with ladder, pump and cover. It lasted one season. The wind blew it over twice when it was empty and bent the frame frightfully. Also the bottom was leaky in many places, bad quality and wrong use of chemicals being the reasons for that. At least a few guests and my friend’s kids got daily pleasure from it while they were here and I learned how to monitor and measure pH and apply chemicals.

 

It was always to be a transitory solution, until we could effort a decent underground pool. So now we have no choice but to start the new ‘pool’ project, to that end Nigel has started digging. Yes, by hand, shovel and pick. We envision a 6m long x 3m wide x 2m deep. This will take some time, but we will use it in between, we hope. Hole in the ground, liner and hey presto, we have a pool….

‘Wonky Paws’

‘Drops’ came to us last autumn, a stray terrier mix, in need of food and love. We thought she was only a puppy because she looked so skinny and small, but she was only starved. In reality she is probably 3-4 years old. I cooked pasta and rice with sardines and egg additionally to ad-lib dog food. She soon looked more perky, started running and jumping and took up night shift duties with Sofie. She even developed dark spots on her back that were not there before. She now adores me, the head feeder. As a thank you she gave us a clutch of puppies. Well, it was really the neighbour’s dog that came visiting and romancing her. We are now left with three puppies of which we will keep one. After a month they are now starting to explore cautiously, still sleeping lots and keeping to their barrel home and surrounding bushes. One was born with a deformity, his left paw was crippled and very small and the right one was not quite right either, so I called him ‘wonky paws’. I brought him to the vet and came home with a bag full of supplements to help his development. But sadly, something happened and he died. Drops is now a working mother, doing her job as mice catcher and security guard.

A Whale of a Time

Summer has arrived with the last day of April and we took off to the beach. So wonderful to see the glistening ocean again, the endless blue sky and lovely long, golden sandy beach. It could tempt you to immerse yourself in the cool water, but just not yet. Instead we took a walk along the beach to view the stranded whale.

About two weeks ago a huge whale got stranded along the beach, a sperm whale I think, because another one got dragged in front of a ferry from the Canary islands to the port in Valencia, nobody any the wiser for this stowaway passenger.  This one is well on its way to decomposition, some bones are already loose and the skin is off, you can see the blubber layer. It is 12 m long and was probably longer when intact and alive. Thankfully it is about 2 kms from our preferred beach spot, so when it starts to stink offensively it will only assault us when the wind blows east. We wondered why it hadn’t been disposed off, but how do you deal with a monumental corpse like that? Nigel googled and the options are: stuff it full of explosives and blast it, with bits and pieces flying all over the place. If you move it at this stage, it will probably explode anyway due to the gasses inside, not an appetising vision. Dragging it back out to sea is probably too late as well, it will just disintegrate. The only option left is to bury it. As it seems it is left there to its own devices, a ready banquet for birds of prey, seagulls and other scavengers.

(We went to the beach again a week later, and the whale was gone, buried apparently, as at the site was evidence of movement of sand and machinery tracks. It’s stinking though.)

Pergola Project

To ease the summer heat on the upper terrace and in our bedroom I came up with the idea of a pergola and Nigel (of course) put it up with scrap iron and timber from our friendly scrap merchant. In time it will hopefully be overgrown with vine, jasmine and other creepers.